When he
entered the large, brightly lit room, Rob Ward stopped a moment to savor the heady
scent of butter, apple, almonds, citrus, chocolate and cinnamon. Along the walls
of the room were over 300 pies lined up like beads on a jeweled necklace. With a broad smile he nodded hello to fellow
pie lovers as he threaded his way through 19 tables to table number six, where
he would sit for the better part of three hours tasting over a dozen cherry
pies. For the seventh year in a row, Ward would judge, along with 100 others,
the amateur division of the American Pie Council’s Crisco National Pie
Championship in Orlando, Fla.
In its nineteenth
year, the National Pie Championships has grown from a series of small regional
pie competitions to a single large national event held every April. At this year’s event pies were judged in five
divisions: commercial, independent/retail bakers, amateur bakers, professional
chefs, and junior chefs. Competitors and
judges came from over 40 states. Nearly
1,000 pies were judged by 200 volunteer judges over three days of competition.
Gift baskets were awarded to the winners of various pie categories and the Best
of Show winner in each division received a cash prize.
It is not
difficult to understand what brings bakers to the competition. They love to
create an original recipe they hope is worthy of recognition and prize
money. Most competitors enter pies in many
different categories and return every year hoping for fame within the pie
community. Winning pie recipes are published on the American Pie Council’s website.
A new cookbook, America’s Best Pies, edited by Linda Hoskins the executive director
of the APC contains 200 of the best recipes from past competitions.
But what
brings people like Rob Ward back year after year to judge those pies? There are
no prizes or accolades for the judges. They pay for their own transportation
and lodging. No one writes stories about them in the local paper. They give up
a weekend to sit inside a windowless, air- conditioned convention center eating
pie until their loose-fitting clothes aren’t so loose fitting anymore. So why
do they do it? The answer is simple, it is their passion for pie.
Ward
recently retired to Sarasota, an easy two-hour drive to Orlando. But for the
first six years he judged at the National Pie Championships, he would close his
lucrative orthodontic practice in Illinois for several days. He would fly at
his own expense to Orlando from Chicago and judge pies for three days. He said
his wife would often ask him why he wanted to make the effort to judge for free
and without recognition. He said his
answer was always, “Because I can”. He
loves the camaraderie of the judges, seeing good friends year after year, and
tasting many different pies.
His
favorite pie is cherry, preferably a double crust, the category he judged at this
year’s championship. But his earliest memory of pie was his grandmother’s apple
pie. He would sit on a well-worn stool
in her kitchen in a small house in upstate New York. “I was around eight or
nine watching her work her magic … I still have that stool.”
His
enthusiasm for the pie championship was so great that one year he took the idea
home with him. He and his wife lived on
a close-knit cul-de-sac north of Chicago. He hosted a friendly neighborhood pie
competition where everyone brought their favorite pie, whether they baked it or
bought it. With Johnny Cash’s song Pie
in the Sky playing in the background they sampled pies, Ward “judged” each pie,
and everyone got a prize. It was the talk of the neighborhood for years.
Across
the table from Ward sat a trim, talkative woman who has driven from Jupiter,
Fla, for a half dozen years to judge the amateur division. A red, white, and,
blue “I Love Pie” sticker stood out on her bright red jacket. She is an avid baker who bakes pies, cakes,
cookies, and breads almost every day. When her tablemates asked how she keeps
so trim and fit, she replied “I give away most of what I bake, to the local
fire and police stations and my neighbors.” She just loves to bake, especially
pies. There were at least several people at her table who expressed the desire
to be one of her neighbors.
Like
several other judges around the table, she was disappointed there weren’t more
classic, double-crusted cherry pies in the competition. She considers herself a
purist. If it says it is a cherry pie,
it should have lots of cherries. Her opinion of the cherry cream pie that got
high marks from several other judges? Not enough cherries, too much cream
cheese, she marked it down for that. But
with six judges with different tastes and opinions, the pie still won third
place. The winner? Mamma Mia’s Cherry
Pie. It had lots of cherries and no
cream cheese.
Judging
at the pie championship requires more than just the love of pie. It also requires organization, attention to
detail, and confidence. There were six
judges at a table with each table judging an entire category of pie. There were typically 12 to 25 pies in a
category. A score sheet was filled out by each judge giving points for
appearance, overall taste, balance of taste, mouth feel, crust quality,
creativity, after-taste, and more.
During the tasting process for each piece, no communication between
judges was allowed. But in between pie
slices, conversation was often lively and varied. “Didn’t you think it tasted like lavender
soap?” “What was that spice? Whatever it was, there was too much of it.” “What
was that golden cherry? It was perfect.”
Judging
attracts pie lovers of all ages. A frail, silver-haired woman with a whisper of
a voice has judged at the pie championships for so long she couldn’t remember
how many years, at least 11. She spoke
of a sweet potato pie from her childhood in the backwoods of Louisiana during
the 1940s. Her delicately, weathered hand tapped on the small round pin on her
lapel that announced, pie judge. The family’s housekeeper would make the
pie. She said, “I never saw her use a
recipe and I have never been able to make that pie”. The closest she has come
was from a recipe she found in a southern cookbook from 1764.
Sitting
at the raisin pie table, Judy Hynes proudly wore her American Pie Council Pie
Police t-shirt. She drives an hour from DeBary, Fla, all three days of the
competition. In addition to judging, she volunteers at the American Pie
Festival in Celebration, Fla, that runs concurrently with the National Pie Championship. The most demanding job? “The pie slicing tent
at Celebration, hardest job ever.”
Her earliest memory of pie is her mother’s
peach pie. She prides herself on her
lemon meringue and chocolate pies. In past competitions, she has entered pies for
judging, but never won. But, her days as a competitor will soon be over. Her
son is marrying into pie royalty. This
summer he will marry the daughter of Rich and Linda Hoskins the founders of the
American Pie Council and the National Pie Championships. When asked whether there will be cake or pie
at her son’s wedding reception, she said, “That is so funny. Pie of course!”
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| The Pie Judges of the Classic Cherry Pie Category (Amateur Division) |
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| The Pie Judges of the Raisin Pie and Innovation Categories (Professional Divison) |
