Catching Up on Florida

Jerry and I were in Florida at the end of January. Jerry attended two conferences in Miami and Palm Beach, we visited the boys in Orlando, and we worked on the house remodel in St. Pete for 4 days of meetings and planning and decisionmaking. It was a whirlwind 10 days with sporadic laptop access so blogging suffered. Here are some notes I made along the way:

Miami Hotel: the remodeled/renovated Fountainbleau
Palm Beach Hotel :The Breakers
Orlando/Winter Park: the trusty old La Quinta on Alafaya
St. Pete: Jimmy's pool house

Miami – Truly an International City

Jerry and I spent 3 days in Miami Beach while he attended a conference at the newly renovated Fountainbleau. It was my first time to stay in Miami (we’d stayed in Coral Gables a number of years ago for a similar conference). Jerry grew up in Miami in the 50s. Today’s Miami couldn’t be more different if it tried. Bigger, considerably more diverse, taller, more prosperous (in some areas), poorer (in others), more sprawling, bigger port full of ocean liners, and a symphony of languages and accents, ethnic restaurants and corner stores. Forget about the idea its all Cuban…we heard a wide variety of Hispanic accents from all over South and Central America and of course Cuba. We also heard Portuguese, Haitian, Jamaican creole, and other musical accents of the Carribbean. We heard lots of European accents and languages from the myriad of tourists visiting the Miami Beach. What we didn’t hear a lot of (outside of Jerry’s conference) was just plain English. It was a lot like visiting a foreign country except the signs (well most of the signs) were in English.

The Fountainbleau - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly.

The Fountainbleau. The hotel has recently undergone a massive expansion and renovation. The Fountainbleau was built in the heydays of old Hollywood glitz and glamour in Miami Beach in the early 1950s. It was THE place for the likes of Frank Sinatra and the rat pack, visiting dignitaries, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz, other Hollywood luminaries. and later for the likes of Wilt Chamberlain and Muhammed Ali. It is apparently trying to position itself again as the place for the famous and well to do to be in Miami Beach. Like much of Miami beach, the Fountainbleau had declined in condition and status. And like much of Miami Beach it has undergone a renovation and expansion. It just reopened 3 months ago.

Our review of it is decidedly mixed. First for its price we found service and amenities and size of room to be less than desirable. Our room was way too small for the price. It was so small they didn’t even provide luggage racks for luggage, because there is no room for one! We had to move an easy chair over to the area in front of the door in order to make room for jerry’s suitcase. I had to move the “goodies” display off the table to make room for mine (I know maybe the sell more with the goodies displayed instead of hidden in a cabinet…but really…in a room that small all counter space is at a premium…we are NOT going to by a 15 dollar bag of nuts!). . We didn’t have any glasses in our room when we checked in and it took 90 minutes to get someone to deliver them (AFTER we’d gone to bed). Those infernal magnetic keys constantly deactivated themselves (and yes we know…don’t put them near your phone…we didn’t). The beds WERE comfortable, the sheets very soft, and the pillow were great (and there were plenty of them)…this was good. Air conditioning was efficient and quiet. Also good.


We thought certain hotel services were good, others were not. Housekeeping was very thorough and attentive, our car was brought around promptly when requested, and the fellow came and got my luggage this morning within 10 minutes of requesting. (he, by the way, has worked at the hotel for 47 years….47!!!...this is a man who has seen a lot of history walk through that hotel)..The wait staff at the trendy bakery on the 1st floor were pleasant but didn’t know the difference between a cake and raised donut (you would have thought I asked her how to determine the circumference of a circle). The second day, another wait staff didn’t know the difference between a pear and a peach Danish (I mean…they LOOK different, don’t they?). They did, however, make a decent latte. (They only offer about 20 different bakery goods…can’t management have a 30 minute training session on what is what?) An 18% gratuity was automatically added to the bill at hotel restaurants (which was irritating when the service was NOT worth 18%). Wines by the glass at the mid-priced restaurant were outrageously expensive for their quality. The sound system at the conference was very poor and the bathrooms were a football field away from the main conference room.. And, here comes the “old farts” comment…the décor on the 1st floor was too Spartan, too loud (sounded like grand central station at rush hour on the Wednesday before thanksgiving weekend), too dim, too unnecessarily hip if you ask me. The big 1st floor bar has a lighted floor in blue lights…frankly not the most flattering color…not warm, and it bounces sound like a ping pong paddle. . Certainly not cozy.

Although the lobby retained the white and black “bow tie” marble floors which are original to the hotel, everything else is so sleek and Spartan that you can’t tell the concierge desk from a hat check counter. I mean…you should be able to tell that 3 people behind the Spartan counter with “glow lights” behind them are the concierges without asking them. Did they run out of money for signs??? I was told that the ”bowtie” flooring was required by the City to remain when renovations were done, its really hard to imagine anything new in this hotel being that highly valued 50 years in the future (especially that dorky underlit ice cold blue bar floor!). Okay..the old fart is getting off her soap box on the décor issues.

Finally…something the hotel can’t control…I’d rather be down by South Beach…the Fountainbleau is about 3 miles away…so its more of a destination resort…if you want to go anywhere besides the beach you need to take a cab or drive your car. They do have a lovely beach boardwalk which was delightful. And they have a series of pools which are nice with cabanas and lots and lots of pool chaise lounges. But I’d like to be able to walk and see things without getting into my car. I’m just not a lay by the pool of day kind of person.

Speaking of South Beach. I love it! Its got a great variety of restaurants. A great vibe. A wonderful diversity. Fabulous restoration and renovations of art deco and art moderne architecture. And a great breeze from the ocean. We walked all around. We ate at Hosteria Romana one evening and Jerry’s Famous Deli the other. Hosteria Romana is right on Ocean…Jerry’s is on Collin’s. Hosteria Romana is an Italian restaurant (mostly outdoors) with great service and good food. And a not too over the top priced wine by the glass menu. I had the pasta carbonara which was delicious…not too “thick”…and the bruschetta…very fresh. Jerry had the linguine with calamari…which he liked quite a bit. The wait staff were attentive. Fellow diners were having a good time and ranged from families to a table of 4 leggy, very attractive 20 something women speaking, I think, Portuguese…possibly Brazilian. One of the bars further done Ocean was clearly primarily a gay bar filled (and spilling onto the streets) with partying happy gay men. When we walked back past it later in the evening there was a fabulous looking guy in drag belting out a song, karaoke style on the front stairs…all eyes were on her!
Collins Avenue (historic art deco district) is developing into a sizable shopping area with restaurants and hotels. The Ritz Carlton is located along Collins along with more modest relics of the art deco era…including one called “Maxine”….just like my mom.

Birds. Boat Tailed Grackles. To me these medium sized iredescent pointy billed black birds with long wedge shaped tail and yellow eyes are the sound of the palm tree tropics (at least Hawaii and Florida). They have this gurgling, squeaky door hinge chatter to them (followed by loud chirps) that are linked in my memory to a Kauai hotel that Jerry and I stayed in when I was 7 months pregnant. We had a lovely little ground floor condo unit surrounded by palms…and grackles. It was a lovely trip and I guess I just associate these gregarious and insistent birds to those happy days in the tropics. We also seen these lovely mourning dove like doves Very graceful. They seem to glide when they walk and they have these little white patch on their neck that is very distinctive.

More Eating!

I'm home now from So Cal and planning to fast for a month! (not really...but it probably would do me good). We had a number of nice meals with friends and family and really enjoyed ourselves. A couple of standouts were:

Felix's Continental CAfe in Orange(on the circle). Felix's is a cuban and spanish restaurant. We used to love to eat there in the 80s before we moved. It was a delight to find the food as good as always. I had the roasted pork...yummmy. http://www.felixcontinentalcafe.com/. The arroz con leche for dessert was fabulous. We even were able to eat outside on their sidewalk cafe (courtesy of mild weather and a very efficient standing heater). Had dinner with Melanie and Andy, Mom, and Caitlin and David.

Las Brisas (on the cliff overlooking Main beach in Laguna Beach). Las Brisas has been there for years (since 1979) when it replaced the old historic Victor Hugo's (which was founded in the 30s). The last time I had been to Las BRisas was April 6th, 1988...why do I remember the date? Because I went into labor there! I had forgotten until I walked into the restaurant. We had lunch there with Betty and Del and dinner with Carol and Jerry. Enjoyed both. Had the crab and scallop cakes (an appetizer) for dinner and the garlic shrimp (also an appetizer) for lunch. All were happy with their meals. And the view for lunch was stupendous. They also have a bar menu and outdoors bar.

Anyone interested in an appetizer/dessert crawl? Judy and I were. We started at Lucille's for their fried dill pickles and a coke. Then we headed over to BJ's (originally for an appetizer AND dessert...but we ate too many pickles...now there is a sentence you don't see written very often!). We had the baked cookies with ice cream and a glass of wine! Two great So Cal chains.
http://www.lucillesbbq.com/ and http://www.bjsbrewhouse.com/ (BJ's is now spreading across the country)

Errands and Eating

Landed in LA on Sunday evening. Temps have been lovely...in the 60s (around 48 at night so everyone here thinks its really cold...I just say its 40 degrees warmer than the last place I was...seems like nice weather to me). Have had a round of doctor's appts (just routine) with mom, errands (Costco, grocery, etc), visiting with friends, and eating! Let's get straight to the eating:

In-n-Out burgers. My favorite. Mom and I headed there for dinner on Monday. Hamburgers, french fries and a vanilla milk shake (so I can dunk my french fries IN the milk shake). I really miss In-n-Outs...I wish they'd come back east!

In-n-Out Burgers, Aliso Viejo, CA

Wahoos. A great chain for carnitas tacos, great burriots, and fish tacos (their original claim to fame). The chain started in the late 70s early 80s with a single storefront in Costa Mesa. Now, the family owned chain, has many spots all over So Cal.



Zinc's. This was one of our favorite spots for coffee and cafe au lait when we lived in Laguna in the 80s. Great breakfasts too. Located in downtown Laguna Beach...it was "our" spot. Glad to see its still hear and still great.



Mange Bene. Went to dinner with Carol and Jerry last night to this Italian restaurant in Laguna Niguel (on La Paz road). I had the best grilled pork loin chop...it couldn't have been more tender if it was jello! pasta was good too. warm atmosphere, high ceilings, a good chianti by the glass, casual dining. full bar.

From 1 Degree to 65 degrees in less than 48 hours

We left Montreal on Saturday morning under cloudy but snowless skies. We traveled south in the wake of the platoon of Quebecquois RVs and Fifth Wheelers headed like snow geese south to Florida. Holidays with family were over and it is time for Canadians to get some sun and heat.

Arrived home where it was now 38 degrees. Unpacked, repacked and on Sunday afternoon I headed west to So Cal to visit my mother, family and friends, where it is in the 60s. I don't even need to wear socks with my cole-haan flats!

I'm now in the land of Polly's Pies, In and Out Burgers, really good mexican food, and fabulous grocery stores. Ready, set, GO!!!!

Snow in the New Year

We woke to gray skies this morning that quickly turned to snow skies...its snowed all day until early evening. Beautiful big flat flakes. It was about 10 to 15 degrees...brrrr. We went up to the Cotes-Des-Neiges area and ate at our favorite Lebanese restaurant "Kabab" on Cotes-Des-Neiges Ave. They have great salads...very good schwarma...and excellent falafels. Very casual. (Bathrooms could be cleaner...but other than that...no complaints).

Then we went to see the Warhol Live exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts on Sherbrooke. A fascinating exhibit looking at the influence of music and dance ON Andy Warhol and vice versa. Fascinating. My favorite piece was a double portrait of Aretha Franklin. We had hot chocolate in the cafeteria before heading back out into the snow. This is the second exhibit we've seen at the Museum (we saw the retrospective on Emily Carr last year). We've been impressed both times. We've yet to stroll their permanent collection...must put that on the list.!

Here are some pictures of the Old Port and some of the ships moored for winter at the docks.

Scenes from the New Year

This morning we braved the sunny but cold (1 degree) morning and ventured out for our delicious brunch at one of our favorite Les Bouchees Gourmand on Rue Bernard in Outremont. We then went for a drive along the Lachine Canal out to Lachine and then back on La Salle along the St. Lawrence and the Lachine Rapids. A beautiful day...now we're watching bowl games in front of the fire.

Nannette of the North and friends on New Year

Christmas angels over the doorways of Notre Dame Basilica, Old Montreal

Throughout the month of December, Montreal celebrated with "Old Montreal's Extravanga Holiday 2008" which included amongst other things Saturday night partys at the outside skating rink, fireworks, bands,marshmellow toasting and an outdoor bar. Last night was the culmination of the festivities with the outdoor Grand Ball (fur lined hats recommended). The festivities centered on Place Jacques Cartier and the Old Port where people danced and hopped (hard to say if the hopping was music induced or an attempt to keep warm in 1 degree weather) to several bands including the crowd pleasing BardeFou a very popular band specializing in Quebecquois and Celtic music. Fireworks went off over the old port at last stroke of midnight. It was great fun! Despite the 1 degree weather. When one has on tights, knee high wool socks, thick corduroys, fur lined boots, an undershirt, a long sleeved high neck turtleneck under a long sleeved, wool turtleneck sweater with a sheered beaver coast, muffler, nanook of the north fur lined hat, and fingerless gloves inside thick fleece mittens...its hard to be miserably cold. Of course dancing was limited to jumping up and down with arms flapping!

Gazette Headlines that say "Canada"

How to bike (safely) in winter

Minimum prices for bar drinks considered
(to curb binge drinking)

Search for 8th BC Snowmobiler resumes on Tuesday

It's time to re-ice the backyard ice rink

Montreal's Iciest Sidewalks

Hot Chocolate and Ice Cider: Heaven in a cup.

When we were here earlier in the month we had the yummiest hot chocolate at the Telus Winter Bar at the Old Port Saturday night fete. The bartender mixed Pinnacle Ice Cider (made from apples) with the hot chocolate...it was divine. Tonight, at home. We mixed an apple liquor (a little stronger than the Ice Cider)...about one shot, with a large cup of hot chocolate....heaven in a cup. The fire is on...the cup is empty...it is time for a nap.

Maison Indian Curry

Maison Indian Curry: 996 Jean Talon West, Montreal.. http://www.maisonindiancurry.com/

We ate lunch today at Maison Indian Curry. A small place near the busy corner of Jean Talon West and L'Acadie. We got the last 3 seats (lucky because we were starving BEFORE we walked in and smelled the wonderful food). Had excellent vegetable korma, chicken vindaloo, palau rice, naan bread, and mango chutney. We've eatern here once before and really enjoyed that meal also. Fed three of us for 29 dollars Canadian (about 24 US). Delicious.

The Ships are In!

We arrived in Old Montreal about 5:30 (after a very easy 9 hour drive including potty stops, Subway sandwich stop, and a quickie run into a Costco for chicken and bread). It is mild here...above freezing. There is evidence of recent snow, slush, and ice but not much (at least in the city). It is VERY windy however. It got REALLY windy north of Saratoga, NY. We had to play dodge'em carts with the Costco Shopping carts in the parking lot...we had to figure out where we could park with cars blocking the wind (and the carts flying across the parking lot). We have the fireplace on and are reading and blogging. Think this will be an early night. Tomorrow...we play!

The "winter ships" are docked in Old Montreal. They are always gone in the summer and when we were here in early December that weren't back in port...it looked so forlorn. I was happy to see them. We look out our windows at them and they provide color and interest in the gray and white days of winter. They are Great Lake bulk carriers designed to carry large loads while still being able to navigate through the locks in the St. Lawrence Seaway. They carry loads to and from the Great Lakes...hence their nickname...Lakers.

(photos courtesy of industry websites)

Diane's Book, Greenwich, CT

A couple of weeks ago, I spent the afternoon in Greenwich Ct while Jerry had business meetings. It was a brisk, sunny, cold day. I drove down to see Long Island Sound, had a latte at the Starbucks while reading a good book, browsed a toy shop and then discovered Diane's Books. Diane's is a lovely, well stocked, charming rabbit warren of an independent book store. Stuffed to the gills with books everywhere, well lit, great selection, and a helpful staff. They call themselves a "family bookstore" with "the largest selection of family books" in the country. Check out their website: www.dianesbooks.com. They are located at 8A Grigg Street. I found a couple of surprises that will make perfect Christmas gifts.

Back to La Cabana del Tio

In St. Pete/Clearwater area again working on house plans and construction stuff. On our way back from a meeting in Dunedin we stopped at my absolute FAVORITE mexican restaurant (which i've blogged about before...but they deserve another mention). I had carnitas tacos with freshly made corn tortillas and a "sencillo" sope...with beans, lettuce and mexican white cheese. And a coca cola from central american (made with cane sugar not corn syrup....they taste like Cokes USED to taste like).

I'm staying at the Marriott Courtyard in St. Petersburg. Its located at 300 4th Street North in an old historic building that at one time housed the Pennsylvania Hotel. For more information: http://www.stpete.org/Pennsylvania.htm. The current incarnation as a hotel is convenient, clean, quiet with excellent staff (very friendly and helpful). There is a small bar that is open from 5:30 to ?. And they have a very reasonably priced breakfast buffet with made to order eggs, waffles, bacon, sausage, grits, oatmeal, cereal, fruits, breads, and potatos...coffee and juice (for 8.95). They have a hotel van that will take you anywhere in the downtown you want to go (and pick you back up).

BRRRRRRRR!!!!!

This morning we woke to a brilliant blue sky and steam coming off the water in the port. Steam? hmmm. Just how cold is it? I took a look at the weather report on my blackberry and it said -2. Jerry said, "that isn't too bad...that's only about 30 degrees (farenheit)". I said, no, it is -2 FARENHEIT...in other words -20 celsius! Yowza. And it was windy...so windchill was -15.

Yesterday was snowing (and warmer...around 28) we got about an inch or so. Very pretty. We went to Les Bouchees Gourmand for brunch...one of the best brunches ever...and certainly the best value ever. Cafe au lait, a fruit plate with cottage cheese and confits, a plate of beet salad and carrot salad...excellent. A simple green salad. Toasty bread and preserves. Foie Gras with a carrot confit which was fantabulous. Then an omelette with onions and gruyere cheese which was more like a mini souffle in a pan. And THEN a banana omelet with crunchy almond bits and a drizzle of chocolate. It was just heaven.

Then it was off to visit Costcos. Two...one we call the "english one" in Pointe Claire and one we call the "french one" in Laval. (There are 12 Costcos in the metropolitan Montreal area...all within 30 miles of one another.) Did some christmas shopping and sampled cheeses, chocolates, and such. It was snowing by the time we left Laval and getting quite cold.

Dinner was early (at 5) and we really weren't hungry yet...but we had reservations at Au Pied du Cuchon on rue Duluth so we definitely didn't miss it. I had the meat loaf topped with foie gras and a side of mashed potatoes, jerry had the bison steak frites, jeff had the (I forget the name) pork, sausage, and potato stew, peg had the tomatoe tartlet (or was that totlet?). excellent glasses by the wine. no dessert...we were just too full.

great day...several pounds heavier!

A Winter Saturday Evening in Old Montreal

Peg and Jeff flew in from Ohio late this afternoon. We had dinner at 3 Brasseurs on Rue St. Paul in Old Montreal. Good hamburgers, a quebequois Flamm (like a REALLY thin crust pizza), and a chevre chaud salad. Enjoyed their beer...I had a beer "cocktail"...called the Brit...a dark beer with a shot of Irish Whiskey in it...yummy! (Why it's called the Brit and not The Irish is, I suspect, best left uninvestigated).

After dinner we decided to stroll down to see the Ice Rink in the Old Port. It sits right on the edge of the quays on the St. Lawrence. One part is an artificial ice rink that is open all winter and the other part is a huge "circle trail" which becomes a rink once its cold enough to freeze the water thick enough. Not cold enough yet...

We heard music and saw bright colored lights. Little did we know that there was a party going on...sponsored by Telus. There was an Ice Bar (but not made of real ice...just everything white within a white senu-transparent white tent with windows) which served all sorts of things including hot chocolate with a delicious apple liquer in it...double yum. We went outside to listen to a Quebequois band for a bit. Then the lights dimmed and everyone huddled over by the ice rink. It was FIREWORKS....a spectacular display of fireworks synchronized to music...the theme Moon Dust. It was incredibly beautiful. There we were standing amidst winter trees, hats and gloves, spiked hot chocolate, faces lifted to the sky....mesmerized. What a dreamy evening. Jeff thought they were the best fireworks he had ever seen. Courtesy of the City of Fireworks!

Then to top it off as we left we saw these small bonfires (inside grill boxes for lack of better description). They were handing out sticks and marshmellows...and yes, we roasted a marshmellow to go. Fantastic.

To Font or not to Font

Is the large size better for viewing. I was thinking maybe the print is too small. Just testing. Okay and then there is font type -
There is arial...maybe too bold? Courier...boring! Good old Georgia on my mind...hmmm. maybe. luckia....I've never heard of lucida looks alot like arial? Good old new york Times...oh that would be Times Roman. TRebuchet...isn't that like a big slingshot? Verdana...sounds like a flower...seems kind of fat. What the heck is this? That previous sentence says...what the heck is this? in "webdings" font. A font for code breakers? Okay...lets see what they look like on the page.....

Where is the snow?

It was supposed to snow...we have seen 3 flakes. A bit of rain. And sun. Sun! We get sun at home. I want snow! Lots of it. Well not so much I can't get to the airport and pick up Peg and Jeff when they fly in on Saturday. But enough to have to put my boots on! Where is it?

Les Bouchees Gourmand

Once upon a time a nice Quebecquois couple owned a chocolate/pastry shop on Rue St. Paul in Old Montreal in a 200 year old building. This couple made beautiful yummy chocolates, the best apple turnovers, tarte taitin, and hot chocolate for miles (and that is saying something in Montreal). On top of that, they couldn't be nicer people...gracious, sweet, and giving (a lot like their chocolates). Then the roof froze, ice jammed the gutters, untimely and unwanted waterfalls sprouted within their store. For reasons not understood the owner wouldn't or couldn't fix the problem and leaks and hi humidity continued into the spring making it impossible to get the chocolate to set properly (it's one thing to be cold and have wet feet, its another thing altogether to be unable to make your chocolates properly). So they sadly hung the closed sign on the door for the last time and left the adorable (but leaky) 200 year building. After 6 long months (seemed long for those of us deprived of their simple yet elegant creations) they have reopened (sound of bugles and crowds cheering) on Rue St. Bernard in the Outremont area of Montreal. Hallelujah! We visited yesterday and feasted on their potage Parisien (leek and potato soup), thick creamy hot chocolate, and the best, flakiest and perhaps biggest sweet apple turnover ever!!! All is right with the world again.

Vietnam and Cambodia - tying up the loose end

We've been home almost a month now from our sojourn to SE Asia. With this entry my blogging of our adventure will be complete although I've got lots more work to do on my photo blog on Flickr. But this is fun work. Keeping it all fresh in mind! So this entry is all the loose ends I forgot to post about...a potpourri of bits and pieces of a fine holiday!

To Market, To Market. When we returned to Hanoi for the last time at the end of our trip there had been torrential rains for weeks and there considerable flooding along the Red River and within Hanoi itself. The rain had abated for a few days so we didn't have too much trouble on the main route but we saw many, many flooded fields of rice that had been just ready for harvest. Apparently farmers had been harvesting what they could in the rain in the hopes of salvaging some of the crops. What we saw were people selling ears of corn in heaps along the road into Hanoi. We hadn't seen that before. Again...an early harvest with no market for so much corn. Many, many women sitting in a drizzle with stacks of corn on plastic tarps.

Eggs Anyone? We saw all sorts of things carried on a motorcycle throughout Vietnam...cases of beer, panes of glass, several children, whole pigs freshly slaughtered. But one of the most amazing things we saw was the guy on the outskirts of Hanoi with dozens and dozens and dozens of eggs in baskets strapped and stacked onto , from and around his motorcycle. Between his legs, above his head, on the front where the head lights was. That would be one messy omelet if he took a wrong turn!!!

Evening Lanterns in Hoi An. I forgot to mention the lanterns that hang everywhere throughout downtown old Hoi An. They are strung across streets, patios, from doors. In the evening it is delightful to stroll amongst the soft light that the lanterns emit.

Aussies in Hoi An. I think one small Austrialian City decided to take a holiday in Vietnam. Aussies everywhere.

Boat Ride on River in Hoi An. We took a boat ride from Hoi An out to the mouth of the river with views of the Cham Island. It took about 2 hours and we saw many fishing boats, fishing nets strung from posts in the water (used with lights for night time fishing), coconut palm plantations, cattle on the shore, more fishing boats, a few egrets, and ferry boats (people and bikes not cars) and more fishing boats. We watched a fellow toss the local weighted fishing nets used from the long pirogue like boats. The only negative thing about the trip was that the guy tried to insist that the price was more when we got back...we weren't buying it...we paid what we agreed on and left it at that. Curious.

More on our evening cyclo ride in Hoi An. The night that we took the cyclo out to the residential areas around Hoi An was delightful. Perfect temperature...not too humid. We drove past new 2 story houses going up along the river that sat next to simple one or two room homes with fishing nets hanging outside. We passed women and men working on mending the nets and children playing with a jump rope (hi, hi, hi, hi, hi,!). We laughed at a young dog wrestling with an obliging kitten on the porch of a small home and at another dog that was being shooed out of a garden by a set of nasty geese. We drove through an area of rice paddies in the failing light and came upon the rear end of a water buffalo who was not too happy with sharing the road with cyclos and cycles...he kept trying to run back off the road into the field...his owner had his handsful. Men sat fishing at the edge of small, still ponds. And karaoke bars waiting for the later in the night crowds. We saw two young men loading a block of ice onto a small fishing boat using a makeshift wooden slide that stretched across the sidewalk (they had to move it so we could get through). A small crowd gathered around the floating gas pump haggling over baskets of fish? produce? not sure. The locals evening in Hoi An...it was nice to get a glimpse of it.

Hoi An Hotel :

Pros: a very roomy clean room, comfortable bed, good hot water, safe, good air conditioning, great pool, pleasant staff, good location, a very good value...we paid only $60 per night. Cons: the tub was SO huge, the water so slow, and the plug so antiquated that you could forget filling up the tub for a bath. The lights in the room were a little dim...but not too bad. If you want to be able to have your windows open...you'd be better off above the 1st floor.

Where are the birds? and other ruminations on Vietnam

So where were the birds? Virtually no pigeons...who doesn't have pigeons? Few sparrows. Few egrets, herons (with all those rice fields?). Only an occasional gull or two. We saw a few hawks in Halong Bay but virtually no place else. Very few places had morning chirps outside the window. I was happy that I wasn't lugging around a bird book through Vietnam. So here is my theory. In hard times people eat everything and anything and Vietnam has had a lot of hard time. So they eat pigeons and other feral birds, they eat rodents and small critters. So any kind of bird dependent on small critters for food either starve or move to better territory. Other birds dependent on the picking and leavings of people...are fair game and in close proximity. And then you add the ecological devastation of decades of war and defoliation practices...its a wonder there are any birds whatsoever!

Honda: definition: any motorcycle or scooter. Honda has become the "kleenex" or "xerox" of Vietnam. Any msall motorcyle or scooter can be referred to generically as a Honda whether it is one or not (Honda's by the way are about 3 or 4 times as expensive as Chinese made cycles)

The $68,000 Camrys: Cars are very expensive in Vietnam. Partly due to economics and partly due to political design. It is correctly perceived that the road and circulation system is not ready for an onslaught of automobiles...it's barely surviving the millions of motorbikes/scooters that have popped up like bunnies with the increased prosperity of the last decade. So import duties are very high...up to 250%. So a Toyota Camry shipped from the US costs $68.000. I'm still trying to calculate what the Porshce Cayenne I saw in Saigon would cost...I calcuate about $240,000.

Water Buffaloes don't eat rice, cattle do. One of the reasons you see so many more water buffalo's pulling equipment in the field. When they are on break they don't eat the product!

Motorbike Washing Parties. When someone is finally able to save up enough money to buy a motorbike, they will have a party where they invite friends for the "first wash". Who is bringing the Bia (Bia is the Vietnamese word for Beer....Bia Hoi...is locally produced beer...consistently good and cheap).